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Post Info TOPIC: Scattershield alignment



- I done brokend it! -
Smokey Point, WA


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Scattershield alignment
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im aligning my scattershield and have the robbmc offset dowels. They say it should be within .005" of center. Well closest I can get it is .030 up and down and .003 left to right. 

 

Am am I screwed? Do I have any other options to try and align it like grind the dowel holes on the scattershield and give it a looser tolerance fit or is that an awful idea? 

 

Looking for or some experienced dudes to shed some light on this



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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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What offset are your dowels? Might need bigger offset units. I dont remember specs now. You are zeroing your indicator and dividing by 2 right?

 



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 06:23:39 PM

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- I done brokend it! -
Smokey Point, WA


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Brettd85 wrote:

What offset are your dowels? Might need bigger offset units. I dont remember specs now. You are zeroing your indicator and dividing by 2 right?

 



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 06:23:39 PM


 I have the largest offset they offer (.021"). im zeroing at 12 o'clock and getting .030" at 6. left (9) to right (3) it's only .003" off



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- wondah whooooaman-
Colorado Springs


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primernovaben wrote:
Brettd85 wrote:

What offset are your dowels? Might need bigger offset units. I dont remember specs now. You are zeroing your indicator and dividing by 2 right?

 



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 06:23:39 PM


 I have the largest offset they offer (.021"). im zeroing at 12 o'clock and getting .030" at 6. left (9) to right (3) it's only .003" off


 Put the highest point of the dowels at 12.  You want to move the circle up toward the top of the motor.  Make sure the block and shield are clean with no burrs.  Make sure there's no burrs on the surface the dial indicator is riding on.  Torque the shield to spec when you measure.



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69 Chevelle SS
"Carpe Jugulum"
"Only those who have never learned self-restraint fear reasonable discipline" T.R. Fehrenbach

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/showpic1.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/da...ium/motor2.JPG
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/breakout.JPG



- I done brokend it! -
Smokey Point, WA


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The highest point is at 12. .030" is the closest it will get to ideal



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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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If that's the case it's a crappy scatter shield. Put standard dowels in and measure again if you would. Just to make sure.

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1966 Chevelle, 1972 K20, 1967 GTO, 1955 210 Coupe, 1969 Chevelle




- wondah whooooaman-
Colorado Springs


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Brettd85 wrote:

If that's the case it's a crappy scatter shield. Put standard dowels in and measure again if you would. Just to make sure.


Yeah, something is very wrong.  What is it a Lakewood?   



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Mark
69 Chevelle SS
"Carpe Jugulum"
"Only those who have never learned self-restraint fear reasonable discipline" T.R. Fehrenbach

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/showpic1.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/da...ium/motor2.JPG
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/breakout.JPG



- I done brokend it! -
Smokey Point, WA


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I measured it with 0 offset dowels and it was .060 out. It's a Lakewood unit.

It took a hit. I had a clutch blow up in it and I'm trying to use it again. There's no holes or anything just dents. Looks like I'm out another $600 to get a new one

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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Glad to hear you were running one when it blew.

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1966 Chevelle, 1972 K20, 1967 GTO, 1955 210 Coupe, 1969 Chevelle




- wondah whooooaman-
Colorado Springs


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Lakewoods are notorious for being out, if you can find a McLeod.  I'm with Brett, glad you had a scatter shield and have your legs.  Hope you put an SFI rated clutch back in it. 



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Mark
69 Chevelle SS
"Carpe Jugulum"
"Only those who have never learned self-restraint fear reasonable discipline" T.R. Fehrenbach

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/showpic1.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/da...ium/motor2.JPG
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/breakout.JPG



- I done brokend it! -
Smokey Point, WA


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definitely putting an sfi clutch back in and definitely not running the car without a scattershield now


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- Mike -
Puyallup, WA


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If you can use an early Nova Lakewood housing with the clutch fork hole at 7 o'clock, I still have mine...no block plate. $100

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'67 Chevelle -- 383ci, Jerico DR4, S60 3.54

'70 Camaro -- In the works TT 6.0L, 4L80E, 12 bolt ??? ratio




- Doc Smokum -
- BB Emporium -


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You can check one I have to see how close it is.

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- I done brokend it! -
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cobaltchev67 wrote:

If you can use an early Nova Lakewood housing with the clutch fork hole at 7 o'clock, I still have mine...no block plate. $100


 pretty sure I can use it, im using a hydraulic throw out bearing so I just need to be able to route the line through it.



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- Mike -
Puyallup, WA


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primernovaben wrote:
cobaltchev67 wrote:

If you can use an early Nova Lakewood housing with the clutch fork hole at 7 o'clock, I still have mine...no block plate. $100


 pretty sure I can use it, im using a hydraulic throw out bearing so I just need to be able to route the line through it.


 Aight, let me know if you want it.



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'67 Chevelle -- 383ci, Jerico DR4, S60 3.54

'70 Camaro -- In the works TT 6.0L, 4L80E, 12 bolt ??? ratio



- Durand -

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I had one of the Lakewood units in my 63' Nova when the 3rd clutch turned into a hand grenade.( teenager with a V-gate shifter.)
Never could get a correct alignment afterwards.
Junked the hole set-up.
Got a weapon instead with a 4500 stall, and never regretted the change.


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- Mike -
Puyallup, WA


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These days I'll just use the Browell alignment tool route. I bought one for the Pontiac...don't have the bowling pin piece for a Chevy yet but the ring interchanges (obviously).

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'67 Chevelle -- 383ci, Jerico DR4, S60 3.54

'70 Camaro -- In the works TT 6.0L, 4L80E, 12 bolt ??? ratio

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