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Post Info TOPIC: WTB 93-98 Jeep Grand CHerokee Steering box
Ben


- RAMBO -Mill Creek, WASite Administrator

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WTB 93-98 Jeep Grand CHerokee Steering box
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Anybody have an extra 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box squirrled away?

 

thnx

 

 



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Ben R.

1968 Chevelle 300 - 454 / 4spd




Todd
Puyallup, WA


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Go to pic pull labor day wknd....1/2 price.

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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Pretty reasonable reman units on rock auto also.

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1966 Chevelle, 1972 K20, 1967 GTO, 1955 210 Coupe, 1969 Chevelle




- Jason -
Marysville, WA


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I have a JGC box but its not a quick ratio unit. Works perfect though.

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69 Chevelle SS 
454 10.4:1, Engle HFT cam 244/260 at .050", .570 lift, 850 Mighty Demon Carb, TH 350, 10" TCI 3500, 12 Bolt 373's, 28x10.5 slicks 

Best Time at Pacific 6/20/2014, 11.96 @ 110 mph.

79 Malibu: 350 with Vortec heads, Performer Intake, Q-jet, TH350, 3.31 gears

Tow rig: 82 Chev C20 Scottsdale 454

Ben


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Brettd85 wrote:

Pretty reasonable reman units on rock auto also.


I had been thinking of avoiding those because the chances that the guts may not truely be the same after being rebuilt (the stiffer T-Bar & valving is what I want)

But now I'm contemplating just buying a reman one from oreillys. If i don't like it after i get it (doesn't have the good gust), i can keep returning it until i get one that feels right. They are only ~$160 from them. Just takes time and effort to do that, but my time is free for me.

 

Or i may give redhead gear another try... Its $200 for them to rebuild one and I do have a stock chevelle box here as a core.

I just was not thrilled when i talked to them the last time and the guy didn't seem to know what the Torsion bar was when I asked about it... LOL.  

We bought one off the shelf for my friends 66 442, it was supposed to be quick ratio firm effort. It was quick ratio, but still pinky steer zero effort- and i don't want to pay $200 for that.

 

ARG boxes are now almost $500 otherwise I would just buy one of those since I KNOW they have the good stuff in them.

 

 

 

 



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Ben R.

1968 Chevelle 300 - 454 / 4spd



- Ben #2 -

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Have you tried rebuilding it yourself? I just did my dodge box and it is great, got the kit from autozone.  Also drilled the pressure relief valve in the power steering pump a little bigger and it is one finger steering at a stop in a 3/4 diesel with 35's. Not sure if the same mod can be done to the chevelle pump though. 



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68 Malibu 307/PG. For now.....
Ben


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Bskredsvig wrote:

Have you tried rebuilding it yourself? I just did my dodge box and it is great, got the kit from autozone.  Also drilled the pressure relief valve in the power steering pump a little bigger and it is one finger steering at a stop in a 3/4 diesel with 35's. Not sure if the same mod can be done to the chevelle pump though. 


 I've watched the videos on doing it in a chevelle box and i'm not excited about trying. A lot of tiny steel check balls to ensure are in the right spots.

Plus- i really want the increased effort. Chevelle boxes were from the factory overboosted, requiring very little effort to turn (pinky steer) i don't want that.

i want a higher effort input like what you find on modern vehicles and performance cars. You get that feel by having a larger T-bar or torsion bar inside the input shaft.

The power boost won't take effect until the tbar twists. the heavier the tbar, the more manual effort required before the boost kicks in. smaller/thinner the t-bar the boost is applied much quicker making it easier.

Since i don't have a box with the bigger tbar to start with i need to get one. Thus either getting a Junkyard JGC box or buying an over the counter one and crossing my fingers it was't rebuilt with guts from someone elses chevelle box turned in as a core! 

 

 



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Ben R.

1968 Chevelle 300 - 454 / 4spd



- Ben #2 -

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Gotcha  My pump has no belt so I have lots of driver input right now. Have yet to drive it with the assist. But I've been looking at the Jeep GC box conversions and am curious to hear your thoughts. 



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Ben


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Bskredsvig wrote:

Gotcha  My pump has no belt so I have lots of driver input right now. Have yet to drive it with the assist. But I've been looking at the Jeep GC box conversions and am curious to hear your thoughts. 


I did the swap in my 66 cutlass and it was easy peesy- problem was the junkyard box I got had been gone through previously or was a reman, and did not have the larger t-bar in it than it should have had, so it was close ratio- 3 turns lock to lock, but it was still pinky steer effort.

 

Dave, and a couple other guys on the site here did the same swap but their JGC boxes were unmolested and have the correct harder effort. Ray let me drive his in his 70 and it felt fantastic- so i was always bummed that mine didn't feel like that, but it didn't leak so i never took the effort to change it.

I'd like to do it one time for this car and have it right from the start.

 

 



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Ben R.

1968 Chevelle 300 - 454 / 4spd




- Erik -
Snohomish, WA


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You do know it's not just a box change, right? The pressure relief valve in the pump needs changing too!

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Erik
'69 Chevelle Sport Coupe, EFI355, TH350
'68 Chevrolet C10 Stepside Project, 292, t-56, C4 IRS (project)
'77 Chevrolet K20 Silverado LWB, 400CI, TH400
'91 Chevrolet V3500, TBI Gen V 454, 4L80E, Lifted


- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Hmm. I've run stock pumps. Pressure needs to go up or down? I never had any issues. Just lee fitting and stock lines.

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Ben


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I had read all the stuff on TC previously, and it was never quite spelled out that the pump valve change was required. Plenty of folks are running the 12.7:1 firm feel boxes without changing it.. whether they should change it or not and what adverse effects not doing it are, i don't know.

Can you explain it?




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Ben R.

1968 Chevelle 300 - 454 / 4spd



- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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My understanding is the pressure relief valve opens when you run up against the stops. People(my wife for example) like to force the wheel over hard and hold it hard against the stops rather than back off a little, valve opens so heat doesn't destroy everything. I didn't know it was recommended to change and I don't know what direction.

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- Erik -
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jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/AF-CarFastRatioGearBeingRevised15AP2012.pdf

Page 7 talks about steering pump pressure and flow.

It has to do with how the system operates.  It is quite possible for you to get away with not changing the valve, but each steering gear was developed to work with a certain amount of pressure and flow.  You can get things like, not enough assist during low-speed maneuvers or pulsing feedback into the steering wheel under certain conditions.



-- Edited by ehjorten on Tuesday 29th of August 2017 09:29:32 AM

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Erik
'69 Chevelle Sport Coupe, EFI355, TH350
'68 Chevrolet C10 Stepside Project, 292, t-56, C4 IRS (project)
'77 Chevrolet K20 Silverado LWB, 400CI, TH400
'91 Chevrolet V3500, TBI Gen V 454, 4L80E, Lifted
Ben


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Interesting reading.
I certainly didn't have those problems with my other JGC box w/ stock 66 pump valving- opposite, it was too easy to turn. With the pinky steering effort + the close ratio it was a bit sketchy to drive it on the freeway at speed as even the slightest steering wheel movement moved the whole car.

Its looking like the box that i want is just out of my budget for now. I will likely just hook up what i have and run it until i can come up with the $$ for the good 12.7:1 box with the .210" tbar in it.




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Ben R.

1968 Chevelle 300 - 454 / 4spd

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