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Post Info TOPIC: 55 Chevy 210 Sorting



- Doc Smokum -
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55 Chevy 210 Sorting
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I kinda like the torque thrusts too.



-- Edited by FRYNTYR on Saturday 6th of January 2018 08:44:42 PM

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Welfare Nova 10.13 @ 131 N/A, can't wait for a full squeeze pass and some traction, 9's coming. 



- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Yeah that looks killer. Especially with the gray paint. 

qa1’s, brakes, and sway bar have arrived. Haven’t opened them yet but hope to tomorrow. Lower control arms on backorder. 



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Saturday 6th of January 2018 08:56:19 PM

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1966 Chevelle, 1972 K20, 1967 GTO, 1955 210 Coupe, 1969 Chevelle




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Brettd85 wrote:

I haven't been contributing much to the site lately... It's time for me to improve the handling and drivability of the 55.  I only drove it 2-3 times this year and it's a waste, could be a really cool and fun car.  The car has multiple issues that make it slightly unsafe and not fun to drive.  It handles like crap, wanders, doesn't turn well, and has a few other nagging issues.  Previous owner seemed to hack it together with mismatched parts and loose bolts.  This is a car my dad bought about 7 years ago from a body guy in Oregon.  Body is beautiful but mechanical was not good.  I stored it for him and we restored the engine bay and dressed up the engine, changed rear gears, added hydroboost, new cooling package etc.  I inherited it 5 years ago so figure its not costing me much if I go ahead and put some money into it so I can enjoy it.  A custom art morrison frame would be awesome but too $$!   

Heres a before pic and engine bay:

Suspension-  Does not give any confidence on the road.  Already has CPP upper control arms.  Will be replacing stock lowers with global west lowers and add QA1 coil overs and a Hotchkis sway bar.  Rear suspension likely needs attention also but will do the front first and see how it goes. Rear is currently on relocated inboard leaf springs, slapper bars, and air shocks. 

Steering - I would ultimately like to install a rack and pinion steering but with the current engine position, oil pan, and custom headers I don't think it will fit.  The headers are very nice and I had them powder coated so do not want to change them.  Will be doing some research.  Steering linkage seems to have been replaced at some point so think I will try doing the suspension first and see how it handles, if needed go down the rack route.  

Header pipe that goes under engine mount.  Hard to see but not sure if there is room for a rack through here:

Power steering pump - Currently whines non stop..  Engine has a march kit that requires a saginaw type 2 pump.  I suspect the remote reservoir is not high enough, plus the additional complication of hydroboost w/ the power steering.  I increased the hose size and that seemed to help, at least it doesn't foam over anymore.  I have tried all types of fluids.  I'm going to see if I can get brackets for a standard power steering pump w/ built in reservoir that will work with existing alternator brackets.  I think that would likely fix the issue.  I don't want to go to manual brakes and a brake booster won't fit.

Valve cover gasket leaks. Have to remove hydroboost to get to it, not a huge deal. 

Driveshaft - Looks like an original 55 shaft, very small.  Has greasable u joints.  Can tell looking at the floor its failed before.  W/ a big block and a 4 speed I just don't trust it.  Would like to do burnouts once and a while.  biggrin

Clutch - W/ the custom headers the z bar linkage is not ideal.  It works but is difficult to feather and operate.  I added heim joints and that helped, but still sucks.  Would like to go to a hydraulic clutch in the near future.

Brakes - The front disc brakes have some unknown brackets that put the calipers in the wrong spot.  We had to really limit the turning by welding stops to the control arm because the calipers would hit the frame in a turn, causing it to push in the piston and you lose brakes until you push the brake in a few times.  One of the rotors rubs on the spindle. Going to just start over with a 2" drop spindle brake kit.  

Here you can see where brake caliper was hitting droop stop bracket thats riveted and welded to frame(shiny spot):

Here it is all out:

Anybody interested in the lowers, sway bar, springs?  Free!  The calipers are good and rotors can be turned and used on something else.  They look just like chevelle single piston calipers and 11" rotors. Though I haven't measured them.  $60 for the brakes.   

 



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Sunday 31st of December 2017 05:30:37 PM


 hey, the sway bar will fit mine.....



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Welfare Nova 10.13 @ 131 N/A, can't wait for a full squeeze pass and some traction, 9's coming. 




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66SSFan wrote:

Can’t believe it’s even a question???


 Now that's funny!!!!



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Welfare Nova 10.13 @ 131 N/A, can't wait for a full squeeze pass and some traction, 9's coming. 




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I will say the Salt flat rims look tough and not many people running them.

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Welfare Nova 10.13 @ 131 N/A, can't wait for a full squeeze pass and some traction, 9's coming. 



- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Sway bar is yours.

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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Got my brakes and coil overs ready for install. Should have my lower control arms late next week to put it back together. Will also have my new driveshaft next week and a frame mounted shock relocation crossmember. Chevy put the rear shocks on the body which was a horrible design. One of my mounts is blown out so moving it to the frame will be much better.


Also got my hydroboost reservoir.  It will be tight... Will have to clearance the inner wheel well slightly to make room for it behind core support.  Hopefully fixes the power steering whine.

41u1aOchinL._SY300_.jpg



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- MattieP -
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We did that shock relocation bar on my brothers 57 They make a few different types

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- Mike -
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Cool stuff! I had no idea the rear shocks mounted to the body.

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'70 Camaro -- In the works TT 6.0L, 4L80E, 12 bolt ??? ratio



- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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You can make one pretty easy but I ordered one from Danchuck that has the schock mounts further inboard to work with leaf springs that have been relocated inside the frame for tire clearance.

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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Got my Danchuck shock crossmember. I should have just built my own. I had to cut off the shock brackets, clean them up, and re-weld them where they would work with my leaf spring and shock mount location. 3.5" exhaust could have been routed a bit tighter also.  Ended up welding the crossmember to the frame versus bolting. Lots of checking and re-checking but came out well. Measured and ordered KYB shocks that will work.

Didn't get a picture but got my PSC hydroboost reservoir mounted.  Had to cut some clearance in the inner fender well but its not really noticeable unless you are looking.  Was a pretty tight fit.  Got all the hoses modified/routed and just waiting for one fitting.  Hope it cures my whining and aeration problem. 

Ordered 1.5" lowering blocks along with new u-bolts. I know with 18" wheels this thing will have to be low. Won't have a lot of rear suspension travel, hopefully enough but we will find out.  Will have to reroute the rear brake lines but need to do some research.  Has a disc brake conversion on the rear.  Calipers say ford but I didn't recognize the connection to the caliper at first glance.  Has a short hardline and then a short flex line to allow calipers to float.. confuse Will take a closer look later and maybe take a pic.  I'm sure its standard stuff.  

Lower control arms are supposed to ship this week. Did recieve my huge sway bar!


Also cleaned and painted the old traction bars. I'm a little worried about ground clearance as the front of these hang down pretty low.  Will try to run them to start though.


Free low mile air shocks, anyone want them?


Also last call for these disk brakes? Unknown brackets but calipers look GM.  Free




-- Edited by Brettd85 on Sunday 14th of January 2018 07:55:37 PM

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- Mike -
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Great progress Brett, I'm curious if something like a lower traction bar made for F bodies would work? I'd be concerned about hooking something with those old bars.

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'67 Chevelle -- 383ci, Jerico DR4, S60 3.54

'70 Camaro -- In the works TT 6.0L, 4L80E, 12 bolt ??? ratio



- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Got my 3.5" driveshaft installed. Looks nice. Bought it from Driveshaft Specialist inc out of Texas. They were very helpful on the phone and came out about $60 less that Denny's for all the same components. I was told Denny's had a multiple week backlog, these guys shipped it out in less than 5 business days. If I had to complain about anything it would just be that its sprayed in a flat black like an epoxy primer, not the highest end finish. Not sure it matters and matches most of the stuff under the car anyway.

www.driveshaftspecialist.com

Finished up the install of the PSE hydroboost reservoir. Hope it works...



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Monday 15th of January 2018 08:06:10 PM

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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Ok good news!! Got my lower control arms, mocked up using my 69's front 18x7 torq thrusts which have 4" backspacing. With the aftermarket control arms and my disc brake kit, which is only 3/8" offset, I will be able to make 4" backspacing work if I keep ride height reasonable. I also think the mockup was good because instead of the 225/45 pictured, I think a little less sidewall would look better so will be going 225/40 instead.

Global West control arms:


Here it is as far as it will go up with the bump stop removed. Does hit fender when I turn and obviously lower than I can go but this is where I realized a little less tire would help. I'm a bit disappointed because I thought with 2" drop spindles and aftermarket arms I should be able to tuck the tire more than this? Its also up in the air so I think it will look lots lower when on the ground. 55 chevy's do have the tallest wheel openings of the tri-fives.


Here it is where the tire won't hit in a turn. Turning into a parking lot could still cause some interference but I'm willing to try it here. To be this low I would have to run it without the bump stops. Again smaller tire would help.

Comparing where the tire/wheel sits on this one shows I should be able to get it low enough:

classic-wheels-1955-chevy-sedan--1c7040f

Also got one side mostly complete.



-- Edited by Brettd85 on Thursday 18th of January 2018 09:17:37 PM

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- Beemer Brett - Redmond, WA

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Front suspension all done. Mounting the sway bar was a bit of a chore due to drilling holes with the multi piece frame and braces but got it done.

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